These are just a few of the not so plant friendly bugs you’ve probably come across in your garden. Although I mentioned insecticides in the treatment method of these pests, please know that its always our last option and we NEVER promote the use as its not good for our pollinators or planet.

Japanese Beetles

I often joke about how hoses can turn the greatest of mood into an awful mood in a matter of seconds.  Those kinks really get me.  You know what is despised amongst the plant people world more than a hose? Those nasty copper bodied, blue green headed awful buzzin beetles.  These small insects carry a big threat. They do not discriminate when it comes to what types of plants they feed on, though they do have favorites. In our experience, they have gone after Plum and Birch trees, Buckthorns, and boy do they love the roses.  Today we even found them on our Passion Vine. In fact, they are classified as a pest to hundreds of different species. They are one of the major insect pests in the Eastern and Midwestern United States, causing monumental damage to crops every.year.

Here are some options for controlling or preventing damage to your plants:

Hand Pick: Unfortunately, the most effective way of getting rid of Japanese beetles is to hand pick them off  your plants. It’s time consuming, but it works, especially if you are diligent. When you pick them off, put them in a solution of 1 tablespoon of liquid dishwashing detergent and water, which will cause them to drown.

Neem Oil: Neem oil and sprays containing potassium bicarbonate are somewhat effective, especially on roses. The adult beetles ingest a chemical in the neem oil and pass it on in their eggs, and the resulting larvae die before they become adults. Note: Neem can be harmful to fish and other aquatic life, so don’t use it near lakes, rivers, and ponds. It also needs to be reapplied after rain.

Use a Dropcloth: Put down a dropcloth and, in the early morning when the beetles are most active, shake them off and dump them into a bucket of soapy water.

Insecticides: This is our absolute last choice but often it is requested by customers.  Al, our chemical guy sprays a systemic in the spring to prevent the damage but that option is never going to work 100% (realistically nothing is going to work 100%)

Spider Mites                      

Spider mites on houseplants and outdoor plants is a common problem. The damage can not only make a plant look unsightly, but in time it can even kill the plant. It is important to treat ASAP in order to keep the plant healthy.  Initially, the damage will be seen as small yellow or brown spots on the leaves.  When webbing begins to occur its safe to say you have an infestation.  The best way to check for spider mites is to shake the leaves of your plant over a piece of plain white paper, if your findings look like pieces of pepper…go ahead and treat.  Bonide makes a spray Mite specific (along with many other companies)  Our preferred method of treatment is Neem Oil.  To effectively apply, you want to hold the plant so that you can spray the under side of the leaves.

Aphid

Don’t get yourself down when you come across aphids in your garden, they find their way into any and all gardens.  These tiny (adults are under ¼- inch) pear shaped soft pests can appear white, black, brown, gray, yellow, light green, or even pink.. Some can be waxy, and some have a wooly like coating.  By sucking the nutrient rich liquids from your plant, these tiny pests can do big damage to your plant.  Apply neem oil for treatment.  In large spots, Eight can be applied for a direct contact kill.

Bagworm

The adult female bagworm is maggot-like in appearance, soft-bodied, and yellowish-white. She will lay anywhere from 500 and 1000 eggs within one bag, after which she dies. The eggs remain inside the bag throughout the winter until they hatch the following spring.  From late May to mid-June, bagworm larvae (caterpillars) begin emerging from the bags. Almost immediately after emerging, a larva starts to produce its own bag. The bag is constructed so the larva’s head and legs are free. This construction allows the larvae to move about the plant as it feeds on the foliage. When a host plant loses its foliage due to lack of nutrients, the larvae will crawl off it with their bags and search for a new plant to feed upon. In mid-August, the mature larvae stop feeding and attach their bags to a twig. They close up the bag and pupate. By mid-September, the bagworm has completed its development, and adult males begin emerging from their bags. The male moth has a black, furry body and feathery antennae. The wings are almost transparent and have a span of about one inch.

…gross

The ideal way to treat Bagworm is to keep a good eye on your tree (most common in evergreens) and pick off and squish immediately.  If your infestation isn’t controlled by birds and your handpicking, in the spring, as soon as eggs hatch you can spray with Bt. Bt is a bacterium that causes the larvae to become sick, stop feeding, and later die.   If the infestation isn’t in time, you can use a insecticide but not only do we not recommend that method, its not as effective either.